Saturday, June 18, 2016

Where to Eat in Madrid

As I mentioned in my posts about Madrid, the food in the city isn't great. I didn't have a meal that blew me away in my month there, but some places were definitely better than others. That's what this list is: a list of the restaurants that rose above the mediocrity. Unfortunately, I went to all these places once, so I can't claim to know them as well as some of the places in Rome I visited several times.

Takos Al Pastor (Mexican) Calle de la Abada, 2 [Between Sol and Gran Vía]: This place generated quite the hype around the program, as I was told by a bunch of people that this was a really good restaurant. I don't know why it took me 3 weeks to finally try it, but I'm glad I did. It lived up to the hype. I ordered 2 al pastor tacos (my favorite kind, and also the restaurant's namesake dish), one cochinillo (veal, but pork), and one with potatoes, pork, and cheese. The pastor tacos were the best of the bunch. I wouldn't call them the best tacos I've ever had, but they were damn good--on a par with any above average Mexican restaurant in the US. The cochinillo was good too, though not on the level of the pastor, and I didn't care for the potato/pork/cheese taco. It was more potato and cheese and less pork than I expected and while potatoes and cheese are a great combination, I felt they didn't really work on a taco. Still, it was one of the best meals I had in Madrid. You also can't beat the value of tacos that are €1 each.

My burger & fries
Strawberry Fields (American/Burgers) Calle de Carranza, 11 [Malasaña]: I was out with a friend late at night (by American standards, not Spanish) and we stopped in this place on a whim because neither of us had eaten dinner and we were hungry. It turned out being a great experience. As you may be able to guess, the restaurant is loosely Beatles-themed and it was decorated with images from the 50s and 60s. I ordered a Philadelphia Burger, which was topped with caramelized onions and a cream cheese and oregano mix. It was really good. I wouldn't have thought of putting cream cheese on a burger, but it really worked. The onions were also really sweet and tender. The best part of the meal was the burger itself, which was cooked perfectly: really tender but not under or overcooked. It was a little pricier than some places. I think my food cost about €11, but I felt it was a reasonable price, and I'm willing to pay that if it means good food in Madrid.

Not  great picture, but this was my
shrimp burrito
Marytaco (Mexican fusion) Calle del General Díaz Porlier, 8 [Salamanca]: Worth a visit, assuming you can find it. You have to go all the way out to the center of Salamanca on the East side of town, and the restaurant itself is tucked away inside a market that has two entrances, one of which makes finding the other side difficult and confused me for a solid 15 minutes (granted I was a little sleep-deprived that day). The restaurant is no more than a counter and two small tables. Tripadvisor said they were known for their shrimp burritos, so that's what I got. The man pulled the shell off some shrimp and rolled them in a burrito with the other ingredients and stuck the burrito under a heat press--kind of like a panini maker to warm up. As I waited I was treated to what is now going to become the unique thing I bring to parties: tortilla chips drizzled with teriyaki sauce. You wouldn't necessarily think to combine the two, but it was delicious. The burrito itself was good as well. Not the best burrito I've ever had, but a good one. It was nice and spicy too, which is a quality most European food lacks. It was also a pretty good value at €7. This was another place I wanted to visit again, but didn't get the chance.

The paella place at the Mercado de San Miguel (Spanish) Plaza de San Miguel [Close to Plaza Mayor]: The Mercado de San Miguel is a fun visit if you're in Madrid. Yes it's touristy, but it's still enjoyable. A lot of the food is overpriced, but the paella place offers a decent sized portion for a good price: €4 for a tapa and €7 for a ración, or a plate. I hate to say it, but this was the only paella I got in Spain, but I've had it elsewhere so I have something to compare it to in terms of quality. It was really tasty and makes a great lunch in a pinch. They give you several different types of paella to choose from too, though I only had the chorizo/chicken one because that's what I'm used to and I'm not a big fan of seafood.

La Campana (Sandwiches) Calle de Botoneras, 6 [Right next to Plaza Mayor]: This and the Paella place were the only two places on this list I visited more than once. It's not the easiest place to find, tucked away on one of the many side streets by Plaza Mayor, but it's worth seeking out. For only 2.70, you get a bocadillo (a sandwich with French roll-type bread) with your choice of meat. The calamari bocadillo, which is what they're known for, was delicious. The meat was nicely fried so it was crispy, but with enough actual meat in the center to make it still feel like you were eating calamari and not just a fried something. I also had the sausage bocadillo, which was really tasty as well. My only complaint with this place is that the bocadillos are really plain: it's just bread and meat without any spices, sauces, or vegetables. The meat is delicious and good enough to carry the sandwich on its own, but I wonder what it could have been if they had used more spices or ingredients. Still, at only 2.70, it's really good food, an unbeatable value, and one of the few takeout places in Madrid, so it's perfect if you're out exploring.

This is a half portion
Melo's (Sandwiches/Fried things) Calle del Ave María, 44 [Lavapiés]: Melo's serves the type of food that you can feel clogging your arteries as you're eating it. It's so good it doesn't matter though. Just sit back and enjoy the egregious grease and calorie count. Melo's is famous for its Zapatillo sandwich, which is 3-4 layers of pork and thick Galician cheese bookended by two pieces of soft, buttery toast. Bring friends if you go. The half portion is only €6, but don't let that fool you into thinking you're not getting much food. The half is freaking gigantic and even with my big appetite, I was barely able to finish it, but it was really good. Like La Campana, it's a bit bland, but the ingredients they use are good enough to carry the sandwich and it made for one of the better meals I had in Madrid. Just be warned that you will probably have to stand and eat it, as the restaurant barely has any seating and it can get really busy at peak times.

Miscellanous Dessert Places:

Mistura Calle de Augusto
Figueroa, 5 
[Huertas]
: Organic
gelato place I stumbled across
 while wandering in Madrid. The
 ice cream is a little pricey for
how much you get, but it was
delicious.
Chocolat (Breakfast/Dessert) Calle Santa María, 30 [Huertas]: One of the Madrileño specialties is chocolate con churros, which is exactly what it sounds like: churros and hot, thick dipping chocolate. It's eaten either as a dessert or as breakfast (Spaniards eat really sweet breakfasts apparently). One of the best places to get it is Chocolat. For €3.50, you get 4 big churros and a cup of chocolate to dip them in. It's hard to go wrong with this combination, and it's one of the few foods that actually originated in Madrid. Definitely worth trying if you're visiting Madrid.


La Mallorquina Calle Mayor, 2 [next to
Puerta del Sol]:
 Touristy and always
busy, but the chocolate croissant I had
was delicious. I wish I had gone back.
La Romana Paseo de la Habana, 27
[near Real Madrid's stadium]
: It's a
ways out of the center of town, but
the ice cream is excellent. Some of
the best I've had since leaving Rome.
So eat away! But go to the South for really good Spanish cooking.

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